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KMID : 0604520230490020147
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Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
2023 Volume.49 No. 2 p.147 ~ p.157
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Physicochemical Characteristics and Skin Absorption of Transfersomes Containing Centella asiatica Extract According to Edge Activators
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Lee Eun-Hee
Yoon Kyung-Sup
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Abstract
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Centella asiatica extract is widely used as a raw material for cosmetics due to its various effects, but it is difficult to expect penetration into the skin due to its high molecular weight and low solubility. In order to solve these problems, lipid-based liposomes of various types were developed to increase skin absorption. Therefore, in this study, we tried to increase the skin absorption rate by preparing transfersomes using surfactants as edge activators in existing liposomes.
Liposome and transfersomes containing Span 80 and Tween 20, 60, 80, and 85, respectively, were prepared using a high-pressure homogenizer, and we evaluated the particle size, polydispersity index, zeta potential, and skin absorption rate. As a result, there was almost no change in the physical properties of particle size, polydispersity index and zeta potential from 25 ℃ to 60 d, and the particle size of transfersomes containing Tween 20, 60, and 80 increased after 60 d at 45 ℃. Madecassoside, main substances of the Centella asiatica extract was used as an standard and madecassoside was measured and calculated when measuring the skin absorption rate using Franz diffusion cells. As a result, formulations containing Tween 20 were the most, whereas formulations containing Span 80 were the least. According to the skin absorption coefficient (Kp) value, all formulations showed 'very fast', and the absorption rate was similar or greater than that of liposomes, except for formulations containing Span 80. Through this, it was confirmed that the larger the HLB value of the nonionic surfactant, the smaller the particle size of the transfersome, and the increased skin absorption rate due to the increased flexibility of the vesicle membrane. Through this study, transfersome using surfactant as an edge activator can be expected to solve local skin problems not only as a cosmetic raw material or product, but also by increasing skin absorption.
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KEYWORD
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Centella asiatica, edge activator, liposome, transfersome, skin absorption
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